G26 Manual

NOTE: I am reproducing the original manual I have as best I can - including errors. This is a work in progress and only up to chapter 4 is typed out. After I complete the text I'll work on improving the images of the drawings I have.

 Latest in a famous line

Designed and built in the Grampian tradition of fine craftsmanship, the G26 sets new standards of quality and safety. High speed performance combined with cruising comfort lets you vacation quietly with your familiy - or boil a wake for your racing rivals to follow!

G26's seaworthy lines and snug double skinned interior brought nearly 200 orders before her first birthday. What finer endorsement of Grampian superiority! Write today for the address of your nearest Grampian dealer - he'll tell you about colour choices, options and extras - and test sail her yourself!

Grampian Marine Limited
451 Woody Rd, Oakville, Ontario, Canada

Contents

FOREWARD

CHAPTER ONE: Introduction to Manual

CHAPTER TWO: Commissioning and launching new boat

1. Launching
2. Joinery Work
3. Rigging

CHAPTER THREE: Winter Storage and Spring Commissioning

CHAPTER FOUR: Sails:

1. Raising and Lowering
2. Storage

CHAPTER FIVE: Engines

CHAPTER SIX: Electrical

CHAPTER SEVEN: Plumbing and Stoves

CHAPTER EIGHT: Wheel Steering and Centerboards

CHAPTER NINE: Care and Maintenance of Fiberglass

CHAPTER TEN: Care of Interior and Exterior Wood

CHAPTER ELEVEN: Windows

CHAPTER TWELVE: Balancing and Tuning the Boat

FOREWARD

Welcome aboard your Grampian. You are joining several hundred other Grampian owners who are sailing all corners of the globe. 

Perhaps you will number among the adverturous bank who have made extended passages in their Grampians to Tasmania, New Zealand, St. Pierre and Miquelon, Bermuda, the West Indies, Panama, the Herbrides or simply through the canals of Europe.

Or, perhaps you will be content to cruise your home waters.

Whatever, we at Grampian wish you Bon Voyage and will be glad to be of help whenever possible.

CHAPTER ONE

INTRODUCTION TO MANUAL:.

The purpose of this booklet is to acquaint owners with some of the features of their new Grampian sailboat and to offer assistance and advice concerning upkeep and maintenance of the boat. While all boats in the Grampian line come extremely well equipped and are ready for sailing, they may require minor adjustments after delivery and launching. Most of these adjustments the owner can make with a minimum of expertise and effort.

All new Grampian boats are covered by an extensive warranty. However, a normally handy owner will probably be able to take care of most minor adjustments and problems humself. This will allow the manufacturer to utilize the company's resources and skilled personnel more effectively for any major repairs or warrany work that might be necessary.

The booklet covers the installation of engines, plumbing and electrical ssytems, offers advice on repairs to gelcoat, and the upkeep of woodwork and rigging and sails. It will also endeavour, in simle terms, to to describe certain  basic procedures that you will follow whenever you first launch, rig and set sail in your boat. Much of this will be "old hat| to the experienced sailor, but some of the tips may prove useful to the newcomer in sailing.

A word of caution: while this booklet endeavours to set out certain information and procedures in effect at the time of writing (1976 Spring), it is possible that changes in regulations, technology, specificationm etc., at any time could also alter the relevance of the related portion of this booklet.

CHAPTER TWO

LAUNCHING AND COMMISSIONING

The following procedure is recommended for launching, either when the new boat is first launched or after winter storage.

1. Lifting straps should be positioned one in front of the keel and one behind the keel. When the straps have been attached to the hook of the crane tension should be taken slowly and carefullyso that straps do not bear against any sharp edges or rub against lifelines etc.
2. Do not forget to attach long mooring lines fore and aft. These can be used to control the boat when it is lifted. Put fenders on the side of the boat that is going to be alongside the dock.
3. Close all sea cocks or gate valves to prevent any risk of leakage when the boat is launched. (When the boat is in the water open the sea cocks and gate valves and check that all hose clamps are tight.)
4. If anti-fouling paint has been applied touch up the spots where the boat has be resting on the cradle.
5. Lift and launch the boat.
6. Unhook one part of each lifting strap and carefully pull them clear with the crane.                                * WARNING: Do not allow lifting straps to rest on prop, shaft, or bearing.
7. If the boat is to be moved under power - either by inboard or outboard engine, check engine manual and see engine section in this booklet. Ensure that procedure for installation and startup has been throughly carried out.
8. Fit of Joinery Work.
   All joinery work (such as doors, drawers, etc.) is made to close tolerances in the shop to ensure opyimum fit. Frequently you will have to ease components which may swell through humidity or temperature changes after delivery.

RIGGING - New Boat:

Each piece of standing rigging is carefully marked and packed in the boat. The rigging procedure is as follows:

1. Place the mast on two trestles or two boxes.
2. Feed the jib halyard over the sheeves at the top of the mast on the same side of the mast as the jib halyard winch, with rope tail on after side of the mast. This is usually the port side.
3. Feed main halyard over the sheaves on the other side of the mast, this time with the rope tail on the forward side of the mast. (Usually starboard side)
4. Topping lift:-
   The purpose of the topping lift is to support the boom when the sails are lowered, and there are three types of topping lifts to use. See drawing for the type used on your boat and attach as in the drawing.
5. Fix the forward and aft lower shrouds to their respective tangs (on the mast).
6. Attach main shrouds to tangs at side of spar.
7. The forestay is attached to the toggle on the forward side of the mast head fitting.
8. The back stay is fixed in the aft toggle.
9. Remove the locking pins on turnbuckles and remove the clevis pins. The turnbuckles should be opened halfway and all should turn the same way when tightened.
10. Attach the spreaders to the mast and put the main shrouds in the grooves on the spreaders and tape or cover the ends to prevent the sails from chafing.
11. If a wind indicator is required, attach it to the head of the mast.
12. Attach the backstay to the chain plate on the stern of the boat.
13. If a crane is being used to step the mast a large rope or strap should be put around the mast under the spreaders. A line should be attached to the strap which can be used to pull the strap and chain hook clear when the mast has been stepped.
14. Check that all turnbuckle pins in the rigging are locked with cotter pins. Tape over the sharp ends of cotter pins.
15. Lift the mast into position and connect the plugs for lights.
16. Attache all stays and shrouds to their respective chainplates. When the mast can stand by itself the crane hook can be romoved. Tighten the rigging and lock the the turnbuckles.
    N.B. The aft lower shrouds should be tightened lightely but the others should be tightened hard.
17. Boom can then be attached.
    CAUTION:
    NEVER OVER TIGHTEN RIGGING. IT SHOULD BE TAUGHT BUT NOT TENSE.
18. After sailing some time the rigging should be checked and tightened again if necessary. You may wish to continue making tuning adjustments thereafter. (See Section "Balancing - Tuning")

CHAPTER THREE

WINTER STORAGE AND SPRING COMMISSIONING:

When stored for the winter the Grampian should stand on it's cradle or have blocks under the keel and braces fore and aft.A winter cover can be anything from a complete boathouse to a simple cover. Many owners find plastic pool covers the answer to the cover question, although others perfer to leave their boats uncovered to avoid the risk of the cover staining the gelcoat. If you have a cover, a support or ridge pole should be used to prevent the cover from sagging in the cockpit or behind stanchions and lifelines if they are left on over winter.If the mast is used as a ridge pole it should be well supported so that the weight of shnow or water will not do permanent damage to the mast. Care should be taken that covers or ropes will not chafe the gelcoat.

MAST STORAGE:

The mast should be supported straight and stored ina  dry place. The spreaders should be taken off, but standing and running rigging may be left attached to the mast. Do not use masking tape to tie the rigging to the mast; it is extremely difficult to remove masking tape marks after a long period of time.

Before covering up, all loose equipment should be removed and the boat cleaned thoroughly. To avoid damage from freezing take the following precautions:

1. Winterize the engine. (See engine manual.)
2. Remove batteries. Remove gas containers on outboard models.
3. Clean and drain the bilge of any water.
4. Pump out and drain the toilet and pumps.
5. Empty the water tank.
6. Allow air passage through boat, whenever possible.

WINTER STORAGE - 2

In spring most boat yards and marinas have a lot to do, and the earlier the boat is ready the better it is for both the yard and the owner. Some preparation includes:

1. Cleaning the deck and hull.
2. Painting the bottom. (You should consult your paint supplier for correct type of bottom paint for your area, and application instructions.)
3. Oiling teak. Any proprietary brand of furniture oil suck as Liquid Gold.
4. Waxing and polishing fiberglass surfaces, a good automotive wax should be used.
5. The rigging, engine, fuel system and gear should be checked carefully and adjusted.

Much of this work can be done after the boat goes in the water but, of course, painting the bottom and checking the propeller stuffing box, etc.; must be done before the boat goes in the water.

CHAPTER FOUR
SAILS

RAISING THE SAILS

Foresail:

To raise the foresail start with the tack which is fastened to the bow casting by means of a 1/4" or 5/16" shackle which is supplied in the standard box of rigging. The sail is then fastened to the fore=stay with piston hanks. This process should begin with the hank closest to the tack, being careful that all piston hanks face the same way and are not twisted. The jib halyard, which is locate don the port side of the mast is then fastened to the head of the foresail, and left ready for hoisting. The jib sheets are then fastened to the clew of the sail and led outside of stanchions and shrouds to snatch blocks on the toe-rail and a figure of eight know tied at the very ends of the lines to avoid sheets accidentally pulled back through the snatch blocks. Position of snatch blocks on toe-rail will be discussed further in this section. If you have jib furling gear follow special instructions for the type of gear installed.

Mainsail:

Nearly all Grampian boats are, at the time of writing, designed for a mainsail that has plastic slides for the luff, with a bolt rope being used for the foot of the sail. Taking hold of the sail's foot, the clew is fed into the boom groove and pulled aft along the boom. The tack of the main is then fastened at the gooseneck end by inserting the tack pin through the grommet and tightened. Taking the outhaul rope, fasten one end of this line to the strap-eye located at the out end of the boom. This line is then fed through the outhaul grommet and pulled hand tight before being cleated. Now that the sail is on the boom, insert the luff slides into the internal track of the mast. Starting at the tack of the mainsail, run your hand up the luff until you find the headboard. This process eliminates any chance of the sail being twisted before the main is hoisted. After removing the slide pin from the mast, insert the sail slides beginning at the head of the sail and working down to the tack. When this step is finished replace the slide pin in mast to prevent slides from slipping out. Now the batten should be put in.

Insert Battens:

Since the leach of the sail has a roach, meaning it is cut in a convex curve, battens are required to extend the leach, otherwise it would curl inward. Battens should taper fore and aft with the thinner, more flexible part in the leading edge of the batten pocket. The main halyard can now be fastened to the head of the sail, first making sure it is free of spreaders or other lines.

N.B. Great care must be taken to avoid the rope ends of both the jib and main halyards running up the mast accidentally. It is wise to feed each of the halyard tails through the mast cleats and tie figure of eight knots in the ends. 

Sails can now be hoisted with the boat heading into the wind, beginning with the main which should be set 6" below the top of the mast. This will prevent chafing of the headboard against the backstay.

Release topping lift from boom and secure. On a Grampian 23 and 26 the topping lift is a short wire running from the backstay. On the other models it is a seperate wire running from the mast head. (Editors note: On my 1974 G26 it is also a separate wire running to the masthead - Paul)  Downhaul adjustment is made by fastening the downhaul line with a shackle to a strap-eye located about one foot from the foot of the mast.  Run this line up to a single block which should be attached to the gooseneck unit; then back to a cleat opposit the strap eye, where it is made fast. Enough tension should be placed on the downhaul until small wrinkles along the luff disappear. Outhaul tension is now made, allowing the small vertical lines in the foot of the sail to disappear. Both the outhaul and downhaul adjustments are crucial in putting shape into the mainsail, therefore utmost care should be taken.

Next, hoist the foresail, being sure to allow enough slack on the jib sheets for the sail to swing freely. When the sail is raised the halyard must be snugged up tight so no wrinkles or loops form in the luff. This leading edge, the first to strike the wind when under way must always be kept tight. Should the luff hang loose, the shape of the sail will be destroyed. It will lose much of it's driving power, especially when sailing into the wind. Not only does a correctly set jib give greater efficiency, but most skippers will sail by the actions of a tight jib. From it's motion, whether shivering, violently shaking, or quietly full - they can tell if the boat is being sailed correctly.

LOWERING SAILS:

Sails should be lowered as vessel heads into the wind. Foresails, (jib and genoa) can be stowed, with sheets attached. Remember to attach topping lift to support boom before you drop the main.

STORING SAILS FOR THE OFF-SEASON

Although most sails today are made from synthetic fibres, you will only get the best use of your sails if you store them for the off-season carefully. Sails should be checked, cleaned and then stored.

Sail Inspection:

Sails should be inspected closely for chafe, you may find two or three stitches gone in the sail and even though they may seem minor, they should not be neglected. The fault will only spread the following season and may result in unnecessary loss of sailing time during the summer.

The areas to scrutinize closely are where the main rubs the upper shrouds; check that the adjustable topping lift has not been allowed to rub the leach of the main, or the backstay chafe the mainsail headboard. Finally check the batten pockets at both the inner end and the leach.

All grommet holes should be checked for distortion, along with seizings for mainsail slides and piston hanks on the jib. It is recommended that one drop of oil be put in each piston once a year.

  Cleaning

Small sails can be washed in a bathtub, the large ones on a clean concreat (sic) floor using a soft scrub brush, luke warm water and a mild, non-abrasive houshold (sic) detergent. Rinse sails thououghly (sic) with fresh water and then spread them in the open air to dry. If you prefer to hang your sails to dry they should be hung from head to tack, not the head to the clew as this will cause the leach to stretch. Sails should not be hoisted and allowed to dry flapping in the wind.

Ironing is not recommended as this will cause localized fusing of the filaments and distortion of the cloth which can never be cured. The safest treatment for sails that are badly creased is to hose them down with water and either dpread them out or hang them as mentioned previously. Sails may also be laundered in their bag in a machine using a mild detergent and a setting at permanent press.

Storage:

Sails should be completely dry before being stored for any length of time to prevent discolouration. For best results, they should be stored loosely in a dry area where the air can circulate freely. A;though storage like this can rarely be found, the important things are a dry area and avoiding creases. Providing the sail bags are large enough, sails may be folded parallel to the foot and rolled lightly along the luff and placed into the sail bags. Avoid any heavy articles being placed on your bagged sails. Best results for storing your main would be to roll the sail around the boom and hang from rafters during the off-season.

CHAPTER %

ENGINES:

Inboard engines on Grampian boats are flexible mounted on fiberglass or hardwood engine beds. A flexible coupling is also installed between the propeller shaft and the engine, with an adjustable stuffing box where the shaft goes through the hull. A bilge-blower - to clear the engine of fumes - is installed under the startbboard cockpiy coaming. The starboard vent is the intake and the port vent the air outlet. Fuel tanks are normally located in the starboard locker, except for the G2-34 which is under the cockpit sole, with access to it from under the companionway. All engines should be run in accordance with the engine manual provided by the manufacturer and any problems should be directed to the manufacturer or his representatives. The engine mount and through hull fittings are warranted by Grampian. Each engine carries seperate (sic) Warrany covered by the manufacturer.

(1) Stuffing box/Packing Gland
The shaft is constructed so that its outboard end it is supported by a strut and water lubricated cutless bearing and on its inboard end by a packing gland. the packing material in this gland is standard gland packing which can be purchased at most hardware or automotive stores.
The packing is held in place by a large gland nut visible behind the engine/shaft coupling. When the engine and shaft are fitted, this packing nut is tightened down hard to seat the packing, When the boat is first put in the water this packing nut should be inspected to see if it is letting water through. If a dribble of water is noted, then the packing nut should be gently tightened until the dribble ceases.
When the engine is started for the first time and put into gear, there should be a very slow drip from the packing gland. This water is essential to lubricate the shaft. If not water is coming through the packing gland when the engine is in gear, the packing material wile ware (sic) the shaft and cause heat friction.

On August 29, 2012 I took delivery of my 1974 Grampian 26 sailboat. She's a good old girl, but has been sitting neglected on the hard for about 4 years.

Here she is about to come off of the cradle - getting ready to take the plunge!

Well, we threw her in the water, and she floats! Leaked a bit through her stuffing box, but she soon took up and only had the desired wee drip there. (She has an inboard Atomic 4 gas engine)

This was quite a moment for me - seeing her keel hit the water. It marks the true beginning of what is to become a labour of love.

This is where it all really begins - the life, the work, the pride, and the enjoyment.

At this point in time, the only thing I knew for sure that was absolutely required to do was to get the motor running... but, well, she's a decades-old boat, so there was bound to be a few more surprises in store for me!